A Few Days Exploring the Côte d'Azur
Highlights from my trip to the French Riviera
I recently spent some time in the South of France, staying in Nice and visiting the charming towns that dot the coast. I met up with a friend, who had also been to Nice previously, so we were eager to explore more of the French riviera.
We mostly utilized the train to get around (with a few ubers mixed in). We found the train to be an easy, convenient and affordable way to explore the towns in Côte d'Azur. We blocked 2 full days to ride the rails. On day 1, we visited Monaco and Villefranche-sur-Mer and on day 2 we tried out Eze, Menton and crossed into Italy to see Ventimiglia.
A Homebase in Nice
We stayed in Nice which served as a convenient jumping-off point for adventuring along the coast. We chose Le Petit Palais for our accommodation - it was a quaint (25 room), pretty hotel on the Hill of Cimiez. I enjoyed how quiet the neighborhood was, as we were a bit tucked away from the center of Nice but only a 20 minute walk to the old town.
We had some great meals while in Nice. Clay was a perfect pick for breakfast with really nice coffee and a lovely patio. Type 55 had a great buzz and unique pizza options. We hadn’t arranged a table ahead but I would recommend doing so. We luckily snagged a walk-in spot, but it was quite booked up. Babel Babel was a cute spot along the water that had some good cocktails and shareable dishes.
Additional Nice recommendations:
I was hoping to try Lavomatique but we hadn’t booked ahead and they had no space, so do make a reservation to avoid disappoint. I’ve heard the tapas are incredible from friends who’ve been.
Le Negresco Beach Club - legendary hotel in Nice
Tresors Publics - great boutique with unique offerings
La Cave Du Fromager - the spot for cheese lovers in old town Nice
Chagall National Museum and Matisse Museum - for a bit of culture
Parc de la Colline du Chateau - visit this park for the waterfall and views of the bay
Restaurant JAN - for an unforgettable fine dining experience
Atmos Concept - cool cafe/shop featuring local goods
On to Monte Carlo, Monaco
Monaco is only about 30 minutes from the Nice-Ville station via train. We arrived in Monte Carlo (the country’s most famous district) right before the F1 was set to kick off. The stands for spectators were set up around town, which was pretty cool to see.
Our first stop was the famous Monte Carlo Casino. We didn’t bring passports so we weren’t able to enter - huge fail on my part, so bring your passport! We did get to poke our heads inside the hotel and the architecture was so impressive. I also truly enjoyed ogling the insane yachts. As a Below Deck superfan, I got a thrill from seeing the yachties doing their thing and watching the massive boats docking at the port.
While in Monaco, be sure to stop by The Prince's Palace of Monaco and the serene Japanese garden. Next time I’m planning to beeline it to Fontvieille, which we ran out of time to check out. Monaco is not short on fine dining - Alain Ducasse’s Le Louis XV is on my bucket list. Other standouts include waterfront Elsa and Beefbar’s original location.
An Afternoon in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Next we stopped by Villefranche-sur-Mer - a charming and colorful fishing village with cobblestone streets between Nice and Monaco. In the town, we went by the Citadelle Saint-Elme historic fortress, Chapelle St. Pierre and Saint Michel’s Church.
It was a bit too cold for my taste to jump in the water but Plage des Marinières, the town’s main beach, did look inviting. The Promenade des Marinières was a great scenic walk that I’d also suggest.
Villefranche is home to some impressive restaurants including local institution La Mère Germaine as well as Les Garçons and La Caravelle. I also recommend drinks at the Wine Pier bar at the Welcome Hotel or newer kid on the block, Dry Bar.
In the Clouds in Eze
From Nice, we took an uber to Eze to begin day 2. I won’t lie we didn’t have the desire to brave the hour-long hike uphill from the train station. The car ride was about 30 minutes from our hotel and very scenic, would recommend.
The highlight of Eze, and honestly maybe the whole trip, was the garden - Jardin Exotique d’Èze. The garden can get quite crowded and tickets are required but can be purchased ahead of time (we grabbed them on site without issue). The garden is absolutely stunning and the views of the French Rivera are out of this world.
After the garden, we spent a bit of time in the town and grabbed a casual lunch. We hiked down on the Nietzsche path to the water/train station, which took around 45 minutes. We probably spent 4ish hours there in total and had a lovely experience. I would definitely put Eze on any Cote D’azur itinerary.
Other Eze must-dos include a free guided tour at the Fragonard parfumeur factory and a drink at spectacular Château Eza.
Scoping Out Menton
We headed to Menton next where we explored the old town and the shops on Rue Saint-Michel. I’d suggest stopping by the Marché des Halles de Menton which is a daily market that runs from 8am-1pm. Les Sablettes Beach was also lovely and lined with waterfront restaurants.
Menton is known for lemons due to its ideal growing conditions. If you are a lemon-lover like me, then Menton is the place for you. The town holds an annual lemon festival and you can even visit a lemon farm. There are a ton of lemon-theme products and souvenirs on offer - I picked up some lemon curd with the thought of making some lemon bars soon.
When dining in Menton, check out the Argentinian food and sea views at Casa Fuego and the outdoor terrace at Le Bistro Des Jardins.
A Stop in Ventimiglia
Last on our list was Ventimiglia. My love for Italy knows no bounds, but to be completely honest, I wouldn’t prioritize Ventimiglia. It was quite small, we didn’t run into much to explore there and the beach was a bit bleak. The highlight of that visit was the gelato, which was fantastic, but we probably spent 2 hours tops before heading back.
All-in-all an absolutely dreamy few days in France.
Bon voyage!
I want that lemon curd 🤤